John Smedley

ANAYI John Smedley Sea Island Cotton knit cardigan,
a singular piece.

Part II · On the material

A close reading of the cotton.

This cardigan is a collaboration piece between Japanese house ANAYI and John Smedley, the Derbyshire knitwear maker founded in 1784 at Lea Mills. The fabric is a Sea Island cotton knit — Sea Island being among the rarest and longest-staple cottons in the world, historically grown in the West Indies and prized for its silk-like lustre, exceptional softness, and tensile strength. The yarn is typically two-ply and combed to a fine count (Smedley most commonly works Sea Island in 30-gauge or comparable fine gauges), producing a smooth, drapey hand with a subtle sheen rather than the matte fuzz of standard cotton. Specific yarn count and ply for this exact piece are not confirmed and should be read as typical for the Smedley Sea Island programme.

Construction follows John Smedley's signature fully-fashioned method, in which each panel — fronts, back, sleeves — is knitted individually to shape on flat-bed machines rather than cut from yardage, with shaping marks visible as fine fashioning decreases beside the seams. Panels are then linked stitch-by-stitch by hand at the shoulders, armholes, and side seams, producing the characteristic flat, low-bulk join that lies smoothly against the body. Ribbed cuffs, hem, and placket are knitted integrally to prevent curl.

Finishing details typical for the house and for ANAYI's tailored sensibility include a fine grosgrain or self-fabric placket facing, neatly bound buttonholes, and small mother-of-pearl or polished resin buttons sewn through with a shank for clean closure; exact button material on this piece is unconfirmed. The garment would have been steam-pressed and hand-inspected at Lea Mills before despatch, consistent with Smedley's standard quality protocol.

As Styled — by the editor

The piece, in the world.